Posts tagged ‘mod’

Makita 9500d Cordless Angle Grinder on Steroids

I wanted one for a long time, but getting one wasn’t easy. I don’t think that they were good sellers at all, most of them most likely went to trash several years ago. Anyway, I was able to find one on ebay kleinanzeigen in Germany. Seller told that it is in good working condition, battery was missing, and the shield was missing as well. I didn’t care for the battery, as I wanted to do a Li-Ion conversion. For the shield, I’ve found a solution on Aliexpress, the Chinese sell shields that you can attach to your drill, and then do ridiculous things with it… It was quite easy to adapt one to the Makita.

When I got it, I tested it out with

my existing Makita NiMH battery, the performance was a lot worse than expected, and the motor was pretty worn, or at least it sounded like that. I looked in my parts that I’ve salvaged from cordless drills, and found a matching motor out of a green bosch drill (don’t remember the model, but it was a 12v NiCD model that I got for free because of the dead battery). This one felt quite beefy (strong magnets, compared to the original), and felt like new. I’ve removed the pinions and pushed the Makita pinion to the Bosch motor using my vice.

I’ve built a battery out of 3 18650 cells (Warning: you need to know what you’re doing, you cannot use normal 18650 cells, it needs to be high discharge cells – like the ones used in cordless tools). There’s no over discharge protection, I’m able to handle this by myself, worst case I would have to replace the battery, if  I run it too low.

Makita 9500D Complete

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A new case for an old Squeezebox (v1) – The SpaceDock

SpaceDock1

When one of my V3  Squeezeboxes died recently, it meant that I’ll have to find a solution for the sticky (probably the softeners in went crazy after all those years) case of the working v1 unit, that I was given by a friend. The whole case was so sticky, I did not see any solution in reusing it (others have had the same issue).

Anyway, I have decided to draw an acrylic plate that a friend who owns a company that has a co2 laser can then cut for me. That plate with the attached Squeezebox internals + some magnets went behind a cabinet, so that only the display + IR receiver is visible.

The name SpaceDock is coincidence, it’s the name of the track that was playing.

Hugsby P31 Disassembly / Driver replacement / All flood MOD

In case you’ve ever wondered how to disassemble the Hugsby P31, here’s how it goes:
IMG_0956 IMG_0959 IMG_0960 IMG_0961

I did that because of a malfunctioning driver, and while i was at it, I’ve replaced the reflector with an all flood TIR lens. This makes the little Hugsby a perfect near field flashlight.

Balancing the Magicshine MJ-836 Bike Light Battery

There are many reports about unbalanced Li-Ion cells in Magicshine Bike lights. This can lead into overcharged cells, which is dangerous, or at least will damage the cells. The charger which comes with the light does not have any balancing capabilities, the battery itself only has some very limited under/over voltage protection.

To solve this problem, you’ll need to modify the battery (add a balancing connector), and use a different charger, or external balancer. I’ll use my hobby charger, which has an integrated balancer.

This is no complete guide, it needs common sense, and some knowledge about electronics. You should also know, that working with Li-XX cells is dangerous.

If you don’t know how Li-XX balancing works, please read:
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=599316
before starting to modify your battery pack.

Adding the balancing connector:

Open up the pack:

The interesting part is the four 18650 cells, remove the top of the pack (shown on the left):

Add a new wire which will end as your balancing connector, this is connected to the “middle” of the pack, the pack is 2S2P.

Your Magicshine Pack should now look like that:

The next Step is to put back the isolation, and bring the balancer wire out of the case. this can be done through the original cable exit:

I’ve added a 2mm banana connector, some heat shrink tube, and a cable tie:

Finished Pack, charging:

test

As you can see, the connections were made as follows:

– from the battery goes to – of the charger, and pin1 of the balancer.
newly made balancing wire goes to pin2 of the charger
+ goes to + of the charger, and pin3 of the balancer.

Trisa Elektrozahnbürste AA Mod

This article is about a swiss product, which I don’t think is very common outside Switzerland, so I’m writing in German.

Als ich mir die Elektrische Zahnbürste von Trisa gekauft hatte viel meine Wahl auf dieses Modell, weil ich weder Platz noch Lust auf eine Ladestation hatte. Das Konzept aufladen und leerbrauchen hat mir da einiges mehr zugesagt. Am liebsten hätte ich jedoch eine Zahnbürste gekauft, die mit einer herkömlichen AA Batterie / Akku betrieben wird.

Letzte Woche ist mir die Trisa aus unerklärlichen Gründen ausgestiegen. Ich habe dann am Ladeanschluss mit einer Zange die Platine inkl. Akku rausgerissen. Eigentlich mit der Idee das Teil zu reparieren, doch der AA gedanke war schnell wieder da. Kurz eine Batterie reingesteckt, passt perfekt, nur findet auf der Vorderseite kein Kontakt statt. Es fehlten einige Milimeter beim Minus-Pol, welcher in der Bürste sitzt. Ein Quadratischer Neodym Magnet mit 7mm Seitenlänge war schnell zur Hand, und stellt nun den kontakt her.

Die Zahnbürste läuft nun perfekt mit einem AA Akku.

Maglite 3c 3-Led Modification

It’s been a long time since I wanted to mod my 3c Maglite, which to be honest wasn’t exactly bright. Costs always held me back, but then I’ve found this:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.9358

sku_9358_1

This module is very bright, but too much of a thrower for my use, but i didn’t know that, and probably cannot change it (any suggestions are welcome). It has an included circuit to drive the led’s from 3.6 v- 9v. It also has 3 Output modes, strobe, low, full, they are very annoying, because they change every time you disconnect the power source. The Mag switch actually connects, disconnects for a short time, and then connects again, if you pusch it once. This makes it even worse. So i would not recommend this module, or at least not if you’re planning to use the original switch.

Now to the mod itself:

I’ve had to cut down the mag’s head, and sand out quiet a lot of alloy to get the thing in:

P1000200

I guess this is much easier on the D mag, but i always preferred the C over the D.

Connecting the module to the switch is easy, the important thing is how to disassemble the mag, but i won’t describe this here, it can be easily found on the internet. The whole thing should look more or less like this (module installed in Mag-head, switch disassembled, wires soldered to switch contacts):

P1000198

After reassembling it looked like that, the parts next to it are the leftovers from the mag minus the reflector:

P1000201

Note: Three rechargeable NiCd or NiMh cells provide the absolute minimal current to run this thing, it gets brighter when running on higher voltage. Which is something I’ll maybe do i future, using 2 18650 Li-Ion or maybe LiFePo (much saver than Li-Ion) cells.

Shutup Parhelia!

I’ll never understand what e manufacturer of PC components must be thinking if he designs something like the Matrox Parhelia. Of course this is an old model, but that doesn’t matter at the moment. The fan they’ve installed is louder than my whole PC, and my PC has quite some parts in it, so its not too silent. Anyway, since i didn’t want to buy a new graphics card for my PC (still AGP) and my old one died, I’ve had no choice but making this one, silent, by replacing the stock heat sink/fan, with an old CPU-heat sink I’ve had lying arround :

iPod 32GB Flash the hard way…

It all started with my dying 20GB iPod harddrive, which was out of a 2nd gen iPod and then put into a 4th gen. I didn’t use it very often till my DMP3 Car MP3 player died, and i bought the Becker iPod kit for my car stereo. It seems like I’ve shook the drive to death.

Now that a new harddrive based iPod, or a new harddrive wasn’t a solution, I’ve decided to buy an adapter from CF to 1.8″ ATA connector (search ebay, you’ll find some) and a 32GB CF card from PQI (PQI Hi-Speed 120).

The parts arrived soon, but I’ve had no luck with it. I’ve used the standalone iPod software updater, because I don’t use iTunes, but i always get the !Folder icon after my restore attempts. I then realized, that the default setting on my adapter was slave instead of master, but changing that didn’t help. After some research, I found an article, which explained that it won’t work with the hardware revision (820-1525-A) of my iPod. It’s possible to do it manually, but it looked like a lot of work, and since the quality of my adapter didn’t look so good, I’ve decided to go for an iPod Mini, which already has a CF interface.

The Mini arrived some days later, and i was sure that its’ all plug and play from now on, but it wasn’t. I was getting the same !Folder icon as before, no mater if I’ve used the standalone iPod updater on my PC, or iTunes on my PC or Mac. I don’t like to give up on things like that, but after using Ghost and Acronis, to create images of the original Microdrive, and putting them back to the CF card with no luck, i was sure that my CF card won’t work with any iPod, or at least not with the restore options Apple gives.

Now that was a long story, with a short end: Update your iPod with iTunes first, (to version 1.4.1, version 1.3 won’t work), replace the drive, restore using iTunes, and there you go…..

Mounting (network) components with magnets

The pictures say it all. I wanted to mount my switch inside my sideboard without drilling any holes into the sideboard. I’ve used the magnets out of a harddisk and attached them to the case of the switch using POP Rivets (which was a bad idea, because my Rivet Gun’s now magnetic and it won’t throw out the bolts anymore ;( ).

Switch mounted

Switch with attached magnets

MAG-LITE 2D to 6AA Adaptor

The idea was to use higher Voltage (6*1.2V instead of 2*1.2V), and run a 5 Cell “Magnum Star” bulb in the 2D MAG, this gives greater Output and shorter runtime of course. It’s made of Plexiglas and PCB-board

For further information about lights i recommend www.candlepowerforums.com